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Dog Training Article: Training Your Dog Not to Pull on the Leash
By
Jess Rollins
Copyright Info
Imagine your dog walking happily
by your side, stopping when you stop, turning when you turn, and continuing
with you past other dogs and people. He doesn’t pull on the leash, and he only
goes potty and sniffs when you give permission. Leash manners is
probably the most challenging thing you will probably teach him to do, but it
is fun too and well worth the effort! Read on to begin to make this vision a
reality.
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Before we begin:
A head collar or
front-attachment harness can help to discourage your dog from pulling, but he
will need training to learn to walk beside you without pulling at all.
A front-attachment
harness is a safe and easy to use no-pull device that is great for all dogs.
Choose a head collar for dogs with aggressive tendencies or for those that
need the maximum amount of control such as a small owner with giant-breed
dog.

Gigo wearing a Gentle
Leader head collar (left) and a Easy Walk front-attachment harness (right)
The front-attachment harness
and head collar should only be used with leashes that are a maximum of 6 feet
long. If the leash is too long, it is possible that he could get going fast
enough to hurt himself if he were to hit the end of the leash abruptly.
A simple way to help your
dog learn to walk without pulling on the leash is to stop moving forward when
he pulls and to reward him with treats when he walks by your side. If your
dog is not very interested in food treats, then you can a tug a toy or toss a
ball for him in place of feeding a treat.
The steps below will go
into more detail in order to help you to teach him how to have excellent
leash manners.
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Step 1:“Walking
with my person is delicious!”
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Start by attaching your dog to a rope or leash that
is 10-20 feet long (but not retractable) while he is wearing a standard
harness. Get some pea-sized pieces of fresh meat or cheese to use to
reward your dog and go to a familiar outdoor area like your backyard.
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Decide whether you prefer your dog to walk on your
left or right (left is traditional). Whichever side you choose, you will feed
him his treat reward right by your thigh on that side. He will soon begin to stay near
that side since that is where yummy treats appear!
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Walk briskly and randomly around your yard. Whenever
your dog happens to choose to walk beside you, reward him with praise and a
treat next to your thigh on your preferred side. If he continues walking next
to you, reward him for every step you take together. As he gets better at
this you will not need to reward him as often. If your dog is completely
uninterested in you, take him inside and then try again later at a time when
he is a bit more hungry.
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Practice until your dog is staying beside you more
often than not.

Gigo walking by my side. Feeding Gigo a treat by my
side.
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Step 2: “It’s
worth my while to watch where my person is going and go along too!”
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Begin walking about your yard. Wait for a moment when
your dog is walking off on his own, or is lagging behind to sniff or go
potty. Say “let’s go” in an up beat voice, slap your thigh the first few
times to make sure that he notices you and turn and walk away from your dog.
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When he catches up with you reward him with praise
and by feeding a treat to him next to your preferred side. Then feed him a
treat every couple of steps if he continues to stay with you as you walk. If
he catches up to you very quickly, give him an extra reward.
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If the leash is tight and he does not come towards
you, stop walking and apply gentle leash pressure. The leash pressure is
meant to be a reminder of your presence and to make it slightly unpleasant
for him to ignore you, but not to force him towards you. Praise him
and release the pressure once he begins to come towards you. When he catches
up with you reward him with praise and by feeding a treat to him next to your
preferred side. Then feed him a treat every couple of steps if he continues
to stay with you as you walk.
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Continue to practice this Step in your yard until he
is staying by your side most of the time and if he veers off away from your
side, he comes right back to your side after you say “let’s go”.

“Let’s Go” and walking away.
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Step 3: “I
know when it’s time to smell (or to pee on) the roses”
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Your dog needs time to sniff and relieve himself
while on the leash, but it will help him to learn better manners if you
decide when that will be. As you are practicing your leash walking with your
dog, about every 5 minutes, at a time when you would usually give a food
reward, instead say something like
“go sniff” and let him sniff around or go potty while he is on the leash.
This is a privilege or reward, so if he pulls on the leash during this free
time say “lets go” and walk in the opposite direction, thereby ending the
free time.
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Step 4: “Sometimes
I really need to pay attention to where my person is going!”
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Continue practicing leash walking in your yard as in
Steps 1 through 3 but by using a shorter leash. Eventually reduce the leash
length to 6 feet.
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Practice walking extra fast or slow as well as
stopping and changing directions. Reward him if he can stay by your side
during these challenges.
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Begin to reward him less frequently for walking by
your side in normal circumstances. Continue to reward him for staying by your
side when you walk in a different manner than usual (extra fast or slow,
stopping or changing directions) or you encounter a distraction like another
animal or person.
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Taking it to the
Street:
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On your neighborhood walks you will apply the same
techniques as you did in your yard, but now there will be additional
distractions and challenges such as friendly strangers, squirrels and other
dogs. Consider using a front-attachment harness or head collar for extra
control and bringing fresh meat or cheese for use as treats.
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Say “let’s go” and start walking. If he forgets about
you or pulls, say “let’s go” and turn and walk in the opposite direction.
Reward him with treats when he walks beside you. Be sure to reward him with extra
treats when it was extra difficult for him to pay attention to you.
Don’t forget to give him permission for sniff breaks.
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Challenge:
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Outfit your dog in a standard harness attached to a 6
foot leash.
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Hold your dog’s leash and toss a ball or treat 20
feet away from you and your leashed dog.
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If he pulls toward the object, say “let’s go” and
turn and walk in the opposite direction. If he walks beside you while you
walk towards the object, allow him to continue towards it until he reaches it
and can take it as his reward.
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At first, you might want to use a longer leash or a
less desirable object to make this easier for him.
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Troubleshooting:
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If your dog is crossing in front of you, stomp or
shuffle your feet a bit to make your presence more obvious.
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If he is lagging behind a great deal, he could be
frightened or not feeling well, so use lots of encouragement instead of
pulling him along. If he is lagging to sniff or to potty, simply keep walking
but be sure to apply only gentle pressure on the leash. Don’t forget to use
lots of rewards when he does walk with you.
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If after you’ve practiced these steps, your dog seems
to be alternating between walking beside you and pulling, stop rewarding
coming back towards you after he pulls and instead concentrate on rewarding
him for taking a larger number of consecutive steps by your side.
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“Heel”:
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Teaching him to “heel”
is useful for short periods when you need him very close to you and attentive
to you. It can be very helpful when walking him past distractions like other
animals.
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Begin practicing in your home. Place a treat in your
fist and let him sniff it. Say “heel” and take a couple of steps while
leading him along with the treat in your fist near your thigh. Praise and
reward him with a treat when he is following your fist with his nose.
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Now, practice having your dog follow your empty fist.
Continue to praise and reward for every couple of steps that he follows your
fist.
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Continue practicing “heel” and increase your
standards with each session. Your closed fist will remain as a “hand signal”
for “heel”. Try this outside and in more distracting circumstances.
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